Our interveiw with Butcher and The Crow (Elisha Quintal)

1	What was your inspiration towards your collections? The hidden things. It varies from collection to collection. But the process of making and the hand made are themes that I encorperate heavily into my work.
2	How would you describe the style of your designs and how are they unique? Loose flowing and unconventionally feminine. They are unique because each garment is hand dyed – no two garments are ever exactly the same.
3	What techniques are used in your clothing? I use a lot of print and hand dying method called Shibori which I learnt on a study trip to japan in 2006.
4	Where is your studio, and what work is don’t in there? My studio is in east perth and I do my pattern making and sampling inhouse and the dying and printing is also done there. I share it with 5 artist and designers.
5	What courses have you completed to get you where you are today? I have done completed 2 years of fine arts and a degree in fashion design and textiles at Curtin university. I have also done a cert 111 in clothing production. And am currently at Curtin finishing my honors year in fine arts
6	What made you want to become a designer? I don’t think there was ever a defining momnt. Ive always made clothes and it just seamed like the natural progressinon after highschool.
7	What parts of the design and construction process do you do your self, and which parts do factories or other people do? Everything from patternmaking to sampling and then I outsource manufacturing.
8	What kinds of fabrics do you like to use? Silk and leather.
9	Where do you get all of your fabrics? Mostly from the eastern states. And a small amount locally but I buy all my fabrics plain and then dye them myself.

Do you know what a zine is?

It is a cheaply produced, self published underground publication. It is short for magazine and is often distributed on a small scale. They are produced for people who share the passion for what you are putting in your zine.

Where did they come from?
Originally started in the early 1970's, but the earliest citation known is from 1946.

If Zines are a 'fad', can they be related to fashion?
Yes they can, people are constantly putting current trends, music, art and culture into zones, people are constantly following all of these.

Another for of media that a zine can be likened to is an E-Zine, this is a zine published on the internet like a blog (an online magazine).

Do you know the difference between an E-Zine and a blog?
An E-Zine is more private and exclusive. Anyone can look at your blog and leave comments and become a fan where as you cant on an E-Zine.

Why would you produce a Zine?
To let people see what your interested in and see the passion you are sharing.
Are they commercial?
They are non commercial publications that are printed by their creators on a topic of their choice.

Blogs i like and follow

obsessiondujour.blogspot.com
thestylerookie.com
lookbook.nu
fashiontoast.com
garancedore
bleed for fashion
atrumludus
Facehunter

Theatre De Le Mode

Theatre De le Mode

In 1944, after WWII, Paris was struggling. It had once

been the fashion capitol of the world, but after this war, it saw many

 fashion houses to close down. The ones that were still open, were very

short of materials due to the rationing. They needed a way to get back

 into the public eye so they created the theatre de la mode..

Robert Ricci, the head of commission of public relations

at the Chambre Syndicale ’s idea was to organize an event to

raise money, the event being a collection of dolls, all to be dressed

 by the major fashion houses. The dolls were made of

 transparent wire, with plaster heads and stood 27 inches

 high. Each doll was immaculately dressed, and the details

on their clothing were exquisite, proper linings, trimmings,

 small purses and  powder compacts were also used. The dolls were set up on sophisticated backdrops, designed by some of the well

known artists of the time,Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard,

 Jean Saint-Marti and Jean Denis Malcles.

Based on our research and with the influence of someone from our previous activity, we designed an outfit to suit our fashion dolls. I chose to base my design on Madonna, i made a cone shape bra with a simple black leather skirt then topped it off with a cute little hat. This was a great activity and alot of fun.

Activity

Activity

MUSIC…

-  Analyze what sort of media is used to encourage the public adoption of the trend.

TV – There are programs on TV. (Such as RAGE) People can listen to the music and watch film clips. This is a great way to show off new and old songs.

RADIO – There is always new and old artists on the radio. They are always interviewing them and promoting new songs. When people here the songs on the radio they are encouraged to purchase music. They also are always talking about up and coming festivals and concerts and tell you how to buy tickets.

MAGS – There are pacific music magazines such as Xpress or J-MAG. They are direct music advertising, people can see up and coming festivals, concerts or new albums and read up on bands.

-          PIN POINT HOW MUSIC HAS APPEARED IN THE CYCLE OF FASHION IN THE 20^th CENTURY.

Music has been a major influence towards fashion in the 20^th century.  A few examples are the following:

The Beatles (60’s)-  People were cutting their hair into the signature “bowl” cut and they were the first major band to start wearing full suits on stage.

Nirvana (90’s)- The Grunge look had people wearing ripped jeans, baggy shirts, cardigans, converse shoes and shaggy hair.

Motley Crew/Ramones (80’s)- The punk look encouraged people to start wearing skinny black jeans, black converse shoes, mullet., rocker styled hair and band t-shirts.

Madonna (80’s) - Madonna made the ‘cone’ shaped bra popular. She was huge on lace and vinyl and the beauty spot mole which later on had the piercing named after her.

The Spice Girls (90’s). The Spice Girls had a huge influence on fashion, having each of the 5 girls sporting a specific look.  Sporty Spice (sports wear), Baby Spice ( pinks, mini skirts, platforms and big blonde pony tails), Ginger Spice(English flag prints, orange hair, platforms ) Posh Spice ( Black bob hair, black dresses and black platforms) and last of all Scary Spice ( Huge afro brown curly hair, lots of animal print on everything, dark lipstick and platforms)

Bob Marley (70’s).  Bob Marley made “weed” cool having it printed on nearly everything, hippy clothing, tie dye, baggy pants, dread lochs, scruffy beards and the cute little beanies in Jamaican colours.

Street Fashion/arty cool things :D

Haylee's Jacket, and everything of course:D

 Phoebe's pants are rad!

Phoebe and Luka's necklaces

and ripped shirts

 Love Rebeccas jacket

 Rebecca, this picture is cool and arty:)

Rebeccas crazy feather jacket

Rachel Oldfield

I love her hair, if only mine would grow:(

Flapper girls at the Spiegle tent

Outside Spiegle tent ( Too poor to get inside!)

Fur

Tamara Cordon

Berets

Jake Wilson

A friend took this shot ages ago. I think its cool!

My first peacock experience! Kind of burlesque......esque.

Free Wheeling

Definitions

Fad: An interest followed with exaggerated enthusiasm.

Trend: A general direction in which something tends to move.

Classic Fashion: Something that doesn't go out of fashion, it’s a classic and stays indefinitely, evolving with current and past trends.

Current Fad– Jeggings.

Came out in 2009, didn't last much more than a year. They look like jeans, but are stretchy and fit like leggings. Often made in a fabric that resembles denim. Originally came from Japan Street fashion and became popular from Top Shop.

The Jeggings bubbled up as they didn't originate from anyone or anything, they went in and went straight back out! They were a social statement.

The most fashion influence is:

1. TV 2. Magazines 3. Fashion Innovators 4. Clubs 5. Movies stars 6.  Movies 7. Music videos 8. Internet 9. Streets 10. Advertising 11. Friends and families 12. Billboards .

Current Trend– Military

Has come out in the last 2 years or so and is being seen a lot on the catwalks. Combat boots and kaki green is very popular at the moment. Military was inspired by military uniforms of the Georgian and Victorian eras.

Military style bubbled up as it came from the 18th Century and will continue to become more popular and stylised.

The most fashion influence is:

1. Movies 2. Streets 3.TV 4. Magazines 5. Fashion Innovators 6.Movie Stars 7. Internet 8. Advertising 9.Music videos 10. Billboards 11. Clubs 12. Friends and families

Current classic Fashion: Little black dress

Originally from Coco Chanel in 1926, now slightly shorter and embellishments are added to maintain current fashion and to keep the style fresh. Sleaves are also added or altered to give the cute little dress a twist.

This was a trickle down effect, originally coming from Chanel but the idea of a ‘black’ dress being inspired after her lover Boy Capel died in 1919, and the first black dresses she designed thereafter “were inspired by the simple black mourning attire worn by peasant women in the French villages she knew as a child,” 

The most fashion influence is:

1. TV 2. Magazines 3. Fashion Innovators 4. Billboards 5. Movies stars 6.  Movies 7.   Advertising 8. Internet 9. Streets 10. Music Videos 11. Friends and families 12. Clubs.

I think  femininity and more fitted well presented styles will be the in the up coming style trends. A subtle palette of peach,creams,beige.

Activity

The First vogue magazine ever published was in 1892, this was the cover.

The Delineator

Some articles that this magazine included were, photos, drawings, embroidery and needlework.

Le Bon Ton

The Cosmopolitan magazine was first published in 1886.

The present Vanity Fair has been published since 1983 and there have been editions for four European countries as well as the U.S. edition. This revived the title which had ceased publication in 1935 after a run from 1913.

Researching Our Eco Brand "Bird Textiles"

As Australia's first climate neutral business, 'Bird' is a young brand with a big voice and a strong platform for creating awareness about sustainability amongst customers.
" It's a tantilising textile haven."
This wonderful shop is set in a stunning 1898 heritage listed pharmacy.
Bird fabrics are handmade in Byron Bay, before being sold in their Surry Hills store. Hand printed organic fabrics, fashion, homewares and gift Fabrics are handmade using solar power.

The three R's that are used for the basis of there business are Reduce, Reuse and Recycle.


http://www.birdtextile.com.au/sustainable_about.html

Today we had a 2 hour challenge to create an outfit from recycled clothing. I worked with haylee and jaye, and attempted to make our outfit resemble something that "Bird" might use. It was alot of fun and I think ours turned out pretty cool:)

This was the mood board i created for our group, i tried to lean towards a more natural looking board to team with the "Bird" theme.

History Of Fashion and Costume plates

Costume plates show costume as it was worn in the past. Fashion plates publicize and promote possible future fashion.
Fashion plates reached their peak in the 19th century when they were hand coloured engravings. Costume plates peaked in the 1640's when they were black/white engravings and more men than women.
The first fashion plates existed before the French revolution which was 1789. 


The gallery of fashion was created by Nicolas Wilhelm Von Heideloff who was the creator of miniatures after the French revolution. He had promised that it would contain accurate styles worn by ladies of rank and fashion.


Fashion plates started in the Ladies Magazine in 1770. Fashion plates from the ladys magazine ran until 1837.
Magazines that contained fashion plates were 'Le Beau Monde', The Ladies Monthly Museum', Cabinet des Modes', Journal de la Mode et du Gout' and ' Grahams Magazine'.


Le Belle Assemble'e ran for 63years.
The full name for this magazine was 'Bell's court and fashionable magazine addressed particularly to ladies'.


Ackermann's design elements were things such as pictures of furniture and art pieces that might be interest define ladies in their home making. He mainly paid attention to styles and and their taste in relation to art.
The Le Follet Courier des Salons first appeared in 1829, it was one of the longest fashion plate magazines. The magazine is equivalent to our modern day Vogue.


La Mode was founded in 1829 bu Henri Degirardin. It appeared in La Bon Ton in 1834.

The most famous American 19th Century magazine was Godeys Lady book, one of the most influencual 19th C monthly magazines. First began in 1830, without break until 1898.
 Articles that it included were stories, fashion articles,poems,how to crochet, embroidery, recipes and house keeping.


Two of the most important Victorian Domestic Magazines are Mrs Beetons ' The English womens domestic magazine' and "The Queen'. 


The longest running English magazine is the Queen magazine, the full name was The Queen, the Ladies newspaper'.
It was bought out by Harpers Bazaar in 1958. The name was then changed to Harpers and Queens which was a combination of the 2 magazines but the name was dropped in 2006. It was made commercial by the Radio station "Radio Caroline". 

Whats Not In fashion

Sequins

Flares

Over sized necklaces

Over sized bows

Pointy shoes

Bright, Fluro 

The 'Emo' look

Distressed denim

Tarten

T's with bold words

In fashion

Military

Long gloves

High waisted shorts

Lace

Platform shoes

Jumpsuits

Fur coats

hats

Jodhpurs

Crop tops